Sawtooth Wilderness, ID by Leon Werdinger

Wilderness and wildlife are under relentless pressures at this moment in history, including from exploding demand for outdoor recreation.

Unfortunately, right now some members of Congress are pushing a bill to allow permanent “fixed anchor” rock climbing in America’s National Wilderness Preservation System. The “Protecting America’s Rock Climbing Act” (H.R. 1380) might seem innocuous, but it has big consequences. It will weaken the landmark 1964 Wilderness Act and increase recreation pressures in our most protected places.

H.R. 1380 is the proverbial crack in the Wilderness Act’s armor and a harbinger of what’s to come, which is why we need you to urge your members of Congress to oppose the bill.

While the bill’s title overstates the impact of Wilderness designation on rock climbing, the bill’s enormous impact on the integrity of the Wilderness Act and our National Wilderness Preservation System cannot be overstated. In fact, both the Department of Interior and the U.S. Forest Service have testified against H.R. 1380.

H.R. 1380 would allow the defacement and degradation of Wilderness from the installation of fixed climbing anchors. The use and maintenance of fixed anchors in Wilderness is, and always has been, prohibited by the Wilderness Act’s ban on “installations.” Fixed climbing anchors degrade wilderness character through lasting signs of human development and by attracting and concentrating use—at great expense to native plants and animals.

The Wilderness Act does not prohibit rock climbing so long as it is done without permanent installations. Climbs in Wilderness should be free of discarded climbing gear and permanent alterations. Rather than hammer a rock face into submission, a climber may have to accept that a route that cannot be climbed, or descended, without anchors should not or cannot be climbed at all. Natural limits are essential to protecting Wilderness. As one climber put it, “[I] specifically sought out routes in Wilderness because I was constrained by the route, only able to place protection where it was available naturally. This is a heightened and connected experience. Wilderness climbing is sacred[.]”

If H.R. 1380 were to become law and effectively amend the Wilderness Act for a subgroup of recreationists, it would invite other users to do the same. There is a long list of user groups all vying for a piece of the Wilderness pie—from mountain bikers (who have already pushed legislation to allow bikes in Wilderness), to trail race directors, commercial filmmakers, motorboat users, airplane pilots, and much more.

Wilderness Watch supports primitive recreation in Wilderness that adheres to the Wilderness Act’s mandate to preserve “wilderness character.” The Wilderness Act needs to remain intact and not eroded by the recreation rage de jour.

Please write your members of Congress today and urge them to oppose H.R. 1380 and its Senate counterpart, S.873, and help keep Wilderness wild!

UPDATE
: In November 2023, both the National Park Service (NPS) and the U.S. Forest Service (USFS) issued proposed policies governing rock climbing in the designated Wildernesses that the agencies administer. Unfortunately, both agencies propose policies that elevate recreation above wilderness protection. In January 2024, Wilderness Watch and our allies submitted detailed comments to the National Park Service and Forest Service regarding the proposed policies. 

Additional Resources:

Action Alert: Urge Congress to oppose the "Protecting America's Rock Climbing Act"

Q & A: The "Protecting America's Rock Climbing Act" and the Threat to Wilderness

Sign-on letter opposed to H.R. 1380 from over 40 conservation groups
U.S. Forest Service testimony opposing H.R. 1380
National Park Service testimony opposing H.R. 1380

Wilderness Watch, et al comments on U.S. Forest Service proposed policies governing rock climbing in Wilderness

• Wilderness Watch, et al comments on National Park Service proposed policies governing rock climbing in Wilderness
 
Opinion Articles:
Mountains don't need hardware

The “Protecting America’s Rock Climbing Act” is an imminent threat to Wilderness

Anchors Away: Wilderness doesn't need hardware
The "Protecting America's Rock Climbing Act" is still an imminent threat to Wilderness
 Protect our Wilderness areas from bolting

 

Photo: Leon Werdinger

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